Focaccia sandwiches with mortadella and parmesan cream are more than just a meal; they're an experience, a culinary journey through time and taste. This dish, with its rich history and simple elegance, is a testament to the art of Italian cuisine. But what makes it truly special is the way it brings people together, both in the kitchen and at the table. In my opinion, this is what makes it a true delight.
The story of mortadella is a fascinating one, with its origins shrouded in debate. Some trace it back to the mortar it was pounded in, while others link it to the Romans and their myrtle-berried sausage, the farcimen murtatum. Regardless of its exact origins, mortadella has a long and storied past, with descriptions dating back to 12th-century cookbooks, though these were likely made with veal or donkey. It was in the 1600s that the dish truly came into its own, with Vincenzo Tanara's recipe calling for a blend of pork shoulder and leg, pounded into a paste, stuffed, and cooked at a moderate temperature. This was a luxury item, and the labor-intensive process was strictly regulated.
Industrialization in the 1900s changed all that. Machines and processing methods transformed production, demand, and expectations. The quality of the meat and other ingredients changed, and so did the additives required to keep it fresh and pink. Today, mortadella is made with a variety of ingredients, including tripe, flour, rinds, emulsified ice, egg white, sugar, dried milk, polyphosphates, and synthetic flavorings. But there are also producers who stick to traditional methods, like Artigianquality in Bologna, which uses high-quality cuts of pork from Italian pigs raised in semi-wild conditions. Their mortadella is antique pink, with a firm texture and delicately spiced scent, and it's best served cut into cubes or thinly sliced on a base of focaccia spread with parmesan cream.
The recipe for focaccia sandwiches with mortadella and parmesan cream is simple yet elegant. In a bowl, beat 60g of finely grated parmesan with four tablespoons of soft cheese or ricotta until well blended and creamy. Add a dash of milk to loosen the mixture if desired, then season with white or black pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste. Split four squares of focaccia or four bread rolls, and spread both sides thinly with the parmesan cream. Lay two slices of mortadella on one half of the bread, then top with the other half of bread. Repeat with the remaining bread, cream, and sausage.
What makes this dish truly special is the way it brings people together. Ever since visiting Max Halley's shop in north London, I can't make a focaccia sandwich without thinking of the crisp he would include in any particular mix. He suggests ready salted Kettle Chips, and I suggest putting the crisps in a bowl and the bowl on a small table with wheels, so it can be pushed between chairs and everyone can add the amount they wish. This simple addition transforms the sandwich into a communal experience, a shared moment of culinary delight.
Focaccia sandwiches with mortadella and parmesan cream are more than just a meal; they're a celebration of Italian cuisine, a testament to the art of cooking, and a reminder of the joy of sharing a meal with loved ones. So the next time you're in the mood for something special, give this recipe a try. You won't be disappointed.
